Since the last post (is it really 3 weeks ago?) I have slowly been fitting strips in the final layer on the port side. Here are a couple of photos; first shows progress after the first 2 days - 4 strips one day 6 the next. The strips are 50mm wide, the boat is 5.5 metres long so there are a lot of strips!
The last few strips were fitted yesterday, as you can see they get shorter and shorter. This didn't make them easier to fit because there is a "hollow" curve towards the stem and holding these last strips became quite tricky. The plastic nails I have been using didn't have enough grip so I resorted to "sky-props" and screws through pads.
So, that's one side finished. The other side of the boat will take at least a couple of weeks and I will post something when I get there.
This blog describes in words and pictures the building of a Paul Gartside designed fantail launch. There are a number of fantail launches of various sizes on the Paul Gartside website at http://store.gartsideboats.com/collections/steam-launches.
My boat will look like his 20 foot steam launch but will be 18 feet long and will be powered by a small diesel or petrol engine or possibly an electric motor. I have built a rowing boat, one and a half sailing boats and a small canoe and so this will be something different.
If you would like to contact me please click to send me an email.
My boat will look like his 20 foot steam launch but will be 18 feet long and will be powered by a small diesel or petrol engine or possibly an electric motor. I have built a rowing boat, one and a half sailing boats and a small canoe and so this will be something different.
If you would like to contact me please click to send me an email.
Wednesday, 27 April 2016
Wednesday, 6 April 2016
Stern Tube Hole
Work on this was mentioned in an earlier post. At that time there was a pilot hole all the way through the skeg and keel. Over a period of days I have slowly fitted the block to the inside of the keel and extended the hole through it. A selection of twist drills on the end of a long extension took this hole out to 32mm. At the end of this the hole was about 5mm off the centreline inside the boat. A boring bar was used to open up the hole to about 46mm for the stern tube.
Bearing blocks were set up at both ends of the hole to carry the boring bar that would finish the job. At the outer end I made up an aluminum bush to be a good fit in the pilot hole and to the boring bar. Here's a photo of the bar in place and the timbers that will support the bearing block.
At the inside end the pilot hole didn't allow the boring bar to be centered. This photo shows the 32mm pilot hole with the lines showing where the final hole should be. The bearing block with its 25mm hole was screwed to the support as far to the left as the pilot hole would allow. When the hole was large enough to allow the boring bar to be moved over the bar and inner bearing were removed and the pilot hole in this supporting timber made larger. Then the bearing block was reattached with the bar lined up accurately on the centreline. The final arrangement of this inner bearing is shown clearly in the last photo below.
Now the boring bar is supported at both ends the cutting can begin. One photo was taken when the hole was close to the final diameter and it shows the cutter clearly. The hole was opened out in steps from 32 to 46mm, each step removed about 1mm of timber. After the first few steps the inner bearing was moved to the centreline. The other photo shows the battery drill that turned the bar - fortunately I have 3 batteries for this drill but there were still pauses while batteries were recharged. Very cruel to the drill but it survived!
There was a problem about halfway through the hole where it passed through the 3 layers of plywood. The cutting tool handled the oregon in the skeg and the block inside the hull but had trouble with the glue lines and interlocking grain in the plywood. The is resulted in a hole that was a couple of millimetres smaller in this middle section. Advice from a friend led me to reshape the cutting edge of the tool and then to hone it to a very sharp edge. This solved the problem and there is now a nice parallel hole ready for the stern tube.
The hole is about 780mm long and nicely centred at both ends. I will leave the bearings for the boring bar until the stern tube is fitted using the boring bar to line it up while it is glued in place.
Bearing blocks were set up at both ends of the hole to carry the boring bar that would finish the job. At the outer end I made up an aluminum bush to be a good fit in the pilot hole and to the boring bar. Here's a photo of the bar in place and the timbers that will support the bearing block.
At the inside end the pilot hole didn't allow the boring bar to be centered. This photo shows the 32mm pilot hole with the lines showing where the final hole should be. The bearing block with its 25mm hole was screwed to the support as far to the left as the pilot hole would allow. When the hole was large enough to allow the boring bar to be moved over the bar and inner bearing were removed and the pilot hole in this supporting timber made larger. Then the bearing block was reattached with the bar lined up accurately on the centreline. The final arrangement of this inner bearing is shown clearly in the last photo below.
Now the boring bar is supported at both ends the cutting can begin. One photo was taken when the hole was close to the final diameter and it shows the cutter clearly. The hole was opened out in steps from 32 to 46mm, each step removed about 1mm of timber. After the first few steps the inner bearing was moved to the centreline. The other photo shows the battery drill that turned the bar - fortunately I have 3 batteries for this drill but there were still pauses while batteries were recharged. Very cruel to the drill but it survived!
There was a problem about halfway through the hole where it passed through the 3 layers of plywood. The cutting tool handled the oregon in the skeg and the block inside the hull but had trouble with the glue lines and interlocking grain in the plywood. The is resulted in a hole that was a couple of millimetres smaller in this middle section. Advice from a friend led me to reshape the cutting edge of the tool and then to hone it to a very sharp edge. This solved the problem and there is now a nice parallel hole ready for the stern tube.
The hole is about 780mm long and nicely centred at both ends. I will leave the bearings for the boring bar until the stern tube is fitted using the boring bar to line it up while it is glued in place.
Shingles
Not the shingles you put on the roof but the disease. Here's the short story, may not be medically accurate but it's close enough for a boat builder! In earlier days you had chicken pox. The virus that caused it is still in your body. Later on it breaks out (reasons uncertain, but stress or being run down are high on the list) and causes shingles. Shingles causes a rash and a certain amount of pain and suffering. If you get to your GP quickly enough (within 48 hours) there is a drug which helps your immune system to get the virus under control. If you are one of the lucky ones the problem will resolve itself in 2 or 3 weeks. If you are unlucky it might be months or years. I'm now at the 2 month mark and still have a lot of pain from the nerves that were affected by the virus. I am now going to try to continue business as usual, as much as the pain will allow. Boat building will resume and blog posts will continue but progress may be slower than I would like!
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